How to Reproduce Antique and Vintage Clothing
Pattern Study Know-How and Old Clothing Reproduction
Jul 29, 2009
Antique and vintage clothing is unique and often wearable, but sometimes the pieces are so worn, they are beyond redemption. Perhaps the silk has shattered or moths have nibbled away at the wool. The lace is ripped and torn and the beads are loose and getting lost between the floorboards. Don't toss the dress. It can be used as a pattern study and remade with new or replacement materials.
Victorian Fashion
The amount of work in the remaking depends largely on the era of the dress. Victorian and Edwardian pieces were very detailed. Many components went into the design and tailoring of the finished piece. Everything went every which way. Victorian fashion was big in fabric as well as design. Dresses and gowns from both eras are on the high end of difficulty to reproduce.
Study the Piece
The seamstress may have a dress of mixed fabrics and embellishments dating to 1910. The style and design may be lovely, but in such bad condition that it's not even fit for a museum or display. It can be taken apart carefully, but the first thing the seamstress needs to do is study the piece and figure out its workings. Yes, it has workings. Lots of them.
Preliminary Work
The preliminary work includes making lots of notes and diagrams. Take measurements where needed. Each component should be tagged with a number or letter and the corresponding number or letter should be added to the notes and diagrams. It should be viewed as a puzzle that needs to be put back together. There should be lots of detailed photos to refer to. When there is enough information, the seamstress is ready to pull out the thread picker.
Pick the Piece Apart.
Ensure each component is tagged before you pick the piece apart. There is no need to wash the dress parts, but the pieces should be pressed. The seamstress will be using each piece as a pattern or template to cut the new piece, so it's important they lay flat.
Measuring Each Component
Measure each component to work out the yardage you'll need in lace, wool or silk. Measure underskirts and linings as well. If the original parts were cut on the bias, as in dresses from the 1930s, take that into consideration when working out the amount of fabric you'll need.
Fabric and Embellishment Replacements
Purists will want to find fabrics and embellishments from the same era. Try to re-use whatever you can salvage from the original dress. Perhaps the bead work is acceptable and just needs some tidying up, or the lace around the collar needs only a brightening wash. By using the example of a 1910 Edwardian dress, the best thing to do is to do an internet search for "vintage fabric/textiles." There is a large number of websites specializing in vintage textiles.
Textiles from that era can cost in the hundreds for just two or three yards. A similar search will be necessary to find vintage lace, thread, snaps, buttons, boning and whatever else originally went into the dress. It will prove difficult to find the exact materials.
Layout and Cutting
With all the materials at hand, the seamstress is ready to lay out the fabrics and cut the pieces. Treat the original pieces as you would if you were making a dress from a regular tissue sewing pattern. Pin the original pieces to the replacement fabric.Tag the new pieces as you work with the corresponding letter or number.
Sew it Together
When it's cut out, it's ready to sew it together. Use the same seam allowance as the original. Try not to falter in this allowance. The width could vary all over the original garment and this information should be in your notes. Keep the pictures and notes handy. Take your time, especially with the more detailed pieces. They can get complicated, but by now the seamstress already has a good feel for the piece, its workings and how it all goes together. Be prepared to patiently do some hand work.
Whether the seamstress has used original fabrics or new or even some components from the original dress, the end result will be the makeover of a vintage gown or dress she loves – a wearable one-of-a-kind piece.
Where to Find Pattern Study Vintage Clothing
Visit vintage clothing shops found in most cities in North America, England and beyond. You may also fine pieces at yard sales and thrift shops. Vintage clothing shows may seem like the obvious choice, but dealers at these shows generally only bring their best pieces. Country auctions are also good places to find old clothes, often by the trunk load that's been sitting the the attic for decades.
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