In the past, Gibson Girl blouses and Swing-era peplum suits were only available as lucky finds in thrift shops. Now a seamstress of average to advanced skill can create her own vintage garments, choosing from a wide variety of patterns.
There are three basic types of vintage patterns: antique patterns, copies of antique patterns, and modern patterns inspired by vintage designs. Each type presents a different challenge.
Original, antique patterns can be purchased online from sites such as Blue Gardenia Vintage Patterns and Jewelry or So Vintage Patterns. These are usually one-of-a-kind patterns, available in only one size. Some have never been opened, but many have been used and pieces may be missing.
Copying Antique Patterns
Antique patterns are brittle and delicate. They should be copied immediately as ordinary use will destroy them. The cheapest and easiest way to copy patterns is to trace them by hand:
Place a layer of paper over a large, flat surface such as a table or bare floor. Carefully unfold the pattern and lay it on the paper, print side up. (If the pattern pieces have never been cut apart, leave them uncut.)
An inexpensive, lightweight interfacing (non-fusible) makes an excellent tracing medium. Spread the interfacing in a single layer over the pattern and use weights- not pins- to hold it in place.
A medium-point felt tip or roller ball pen works well for tracing. Test the pen on a corner of the interfacing to see if the ink will ‘bleed’ onto the antique pattern. If bleeding is a problem, trace the pattern using a soft lead pencil. The pattern markings can be darkened with ink after the antique pattern is removed.
Sewing with Antique Patterns
The Vintage Pattern Lending Library offers digital copies of a wide array of antique patterns. Library members can “check out” a pattern on loan for up to a month, and both members and non-members can purchase copied patterns from the Library’s extensive catalog, which offers designs from the late nineteenth to mid-twentieth centuries.
When working with antique patterns it’s important to remember that the cut and fit of clothing has evolved over the years. Modern patterns incorporate movement ease. Antique patterns have smaller armholes and a closer fit in the waist and hips. Victorian and Edwardian patterns for women assume a corset will be worn and the typical waist measurement is 22-25 inches.
Because of these differences, it’s best to make a ‘sloper’ of the pattern first. A sloper is a prototype made from cheap fabric. The idea is not to create a finished garment, but to become familiar with the pattern and decide what alterations it will need.
Modern Patterns Inspired by Vintage Designs
Antique patterns are not the only way to create a vintage look, however. Folkwear has been producing ethnic and historical patterns for men and women since the 1970s. Their catalog includes designs from the early 19th century to the 1950’s. Each pattern conforms to modern fit and sizing standards, and many include a simplified as well as ‘authentic’ version of the garment.
In the late 1990s Vogue and Butterick began reintroducing a selection of classic designs from the 1930s, '40’s, and '50s. Marketed as Vintage Vogue and Retro Butterick, these patterns have been updated for better movement ease without sacrificing any vintage details.
For the seamstress with an eye for classic design, there are options beyond the local thrift shop or garage sale.
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